Feline Behavior and Health

There is a wealth of information on the Internet about feline health and behavior. Below we have identified some resources along with links to information on some very common issues. Some of these documents are in pdf format. If you don't have Acrobat Reader or are using an older version  download a free copy from Adobe.

Choosing a Cat (or Kittens)

-"Choosing the Right Cat for Your Family" by Cats International
-"When Two are Better than One" by Cats International
-"Choose the Pet for Your Pet Carefully" (adults vs. kittens and males vs. females) by Cats International

Kittens

-Tips for Raising a Happy Kitten by SPCA NOVA
-Taming Feral Kittens by SPCA NOVA
-Why Kittens Should Be Adopted In Pairs by SPCA NOVA
-Kitten proofing your home by SPCA NOVA
-Holiday safety with your kitten in mind by SPCA NOVA
- "Welcome Home Furry Baby" (introducing a new kitten to your home) by Cats International"

– Why Allowing Cats Outdoors is Hazardous to Cats, Wildlife, and Humans by the American Bird Conservancy
–How to Make Your Outdoor Cat a Happy Indoor Cat by the American Bird Conservancy
-Selecting the Right Environmental Enrichment for Your Cat by Petplace.com

–Declawing: Behavior Modification or Destructive Surgery by the Animal Protection Institute.
–Surgical Claw Removal: An Extreme Solution by the Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights.
–Is Declawing Cruel?
–The Truth About Declawing by Cats International
- What Are We Doing to Our Cats" by Cats International
–Stop Your Cat From Scratching Your Furniture Without Declawing by veterinarian Dr. Christianne Schelling (see also www.declawing.com)
Also see feline behaviorist Pam Johnson Bennett’s web site and http://declaw.lisaviolet.com/
-Cat Scratch Fervor: How to stop Clawing without Declawing, Part 1 and Part 2 . August 2005. DC Examiner.
- www.de-clawing.com - A directory of major de-clawing web sites

Litter Box Issues

–Prevention of Litter Box Problems by Cats International
–Litter Box Problem Solutions by Cats International
–Spraying Problems Can be Solved by Cats International
Also see feline behaviorist Pam Johnson Bennett’s web site

Introduction Issues

–How to Introduce Your New Cat to Other Cats by SPCA of Northern Virginia
–The Importance of Good Introduction (Between Felines) by Cats International
–May I Introduce....Fido? by Cats International
–Bringing Baby Home by Cats International
Also see feline behaviorist Pam Johnson Bennett’s web site

Territorial Issues

–The Cat’s View of Territory by Cats International
–Sharing the Turf by Cats International
–Sharing the Turf Part II – Scent Markings by Cats International
Also see feline behaviorist Pam Johnson Bennett’s web site

Allergy Issues

- Allergic? You Can Keep Your Cat!" by Cats International
- "Clean the Air" by Cats International

Other Resources on Feline Behavior and Health

–Cornell University, Feline Health Center
–Drs. Foster and Smith, PetEducation.com
–Cats International
–Humane Society of the United States, Pet Information Center
–American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Companion Animal Care
–Think Like a Cat: How to Raise a Well Adjusted Cat, Not a Sour Puss by Pam Johnson Bennett
–PetPlace
–Bathing a cat

Behaviorist Resources in Northern Virginia

Capital Cat Clinic
www.capitalcat.com
Arlington, VA
703-522-1995

Companion Animal Behavior
www.PetBehaviorist.com
Ashburn, VA
703-729-9228
877-640-PETS

Tip #1 NEVER play with a kitten using your hand as a toy. Your kitten will think it is okay to scratch and bite flesh. There are many cat teaser toys available. A shoestring can entertain a kitten for hours.

Tip #2 Hold your kitten as often as possible. Let them know how good it feels to be cuddled and loved. This is especially important with shy or timid kittens.

Tip #3 While holding your kitten gently stroke his belly, legs, chin and any other possibly sensitive areas. This will make your kitty unafraid and calm in the event that you should ever have to medicate him.

Tip #4 Brush your kitten often, daily if they are long haired. There are many different styles of cat brushes available at pet stores. Brushing will make your kitten feel pretty, which is very important to them. It will also reduce the dander in your house. Dander is the cause of most cat allergies.

Tip #5 Clip your kittens nails once a week. After a short time of regular clippings you will find that your kitten will probably enjoy being groomed and pampered. Your veterinarian would be happy to teach you this simple technique or you can find instructions for nail clipping in most cat care books. Well clipped nails can eliminate scratched skin and furniture. When cuddling your kitten massage their paws with your fingers, this will help them adjust to having their paws held.

Tip #6 If you are gone during the day consider leaving on a tv or talk radio station to keep your kitten company. This can help a shy kitten to get acclimated to human voices.

Tip #7 If when holding your kitten they seem to want down, try sitting down and holding them. Kittens are small and to them it looks like a very long fall to the floor.

Tip #8 If you have children please remind them that cats and kittens have very sensitive ears and that their squeals of delight could be very painful to a kitten and may even cause the kitten to dislike children.

Tip #9 Yes, cats can be trained! If your kitten performs an undesirable behavior such as scratching furniture or climbing curtains remember this one simple word "No". Speak it firmly and remove the kitten from that area. Be consistent and never yell. After a short time your kitten will understand the meaning of No. Some people recommend squirting water as a bad behavior deterrant; unless you can squirt the cat without being seen, the cat will associate the water with you and not the bad behavior. Raising a kitten is a form of parenting and I doubt you would squirt your child with water. Be a good parent by being firm and consistent.

Tip #10 The most important tip of all. Give your kitten unconditional love and affection. If your kitten knows it is loved, it will grow into a happy well adjusted cat.

*** Most of the tips can also apply to adult cats especially if they are new to a home.

What are Feral Cats?
Feral cats are essentially "wild animals." They have not been socialized toward humans. 

Can Feral Kittens and Cats be Tamed?
Feral kittens can usually be tamed if they are rescued young enough AND they are socialized properly. Feral kittens should begin their socialization as young as possible. When trapping feral kittens outdoors, its ideal to rescue them at 4-5 weeks of age. At this age, they can usually be taught quickly how to eat on their own and socialize fairly quickly (from several days to a couple of weeks). In general, the younger the kittens are when first socialized, the better the chances are that they will not be fearful of people. These kittens typically become wonderful, loving pets.

Feral kittens should be placed in adoptive homes soon after socialization because some feral kittens, especially those captured at an older age, tend to bond with one person. Kittens who are 7-8 weeks or older who have had little or no physical or social contact with humans can rarely be completely domesticated, although some younger ones may be partially tamed with patience. Sometimes older feral kittens or young feral adults who have become tame and loving with one person can revert to a wild state when placed in a new home. It can take six months or longer for these kittens and cats to bond with the new caretaker.

How Long is the Taming Process for Kittens?
It usually takes 2 to 6 weeks (or longer for exceptionally skittish kittens) to tame feral kittens, depending on their age and state of wildness. Kittens can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. Some may tame up immediately and others take longer. Patience and commitment is required.

Steps in the Taming Process

1. Containment I
Place the kittens in a cage or large carrier which already contains food, water, litter box and bedding. Its helpful if the cage or carrier has food and water bowls that are attached to the doors so you can give them food and water without placing your hand inside. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter box, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open (or remove it). Worn human clothing used as bedding can help get them use to the smell of humans.

Feral kittens may hiss and *spit* at humans because they are terrified. Kittens that act the most ferocious are usually the most scared. They are capable of scratching or biting and will probably try to escape if given the chance. To the kitten, you are a predator and it is fighting for its life. Kittens must learn to feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly. Always move slowly.

2. Handling
Select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kitten is frightening.

If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Stroke the kitten*s body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food or Hills "a/d" brand canned food from a spoon is a great ice-breaker. Repeat this process as frequently as possible.

Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help to transfer its need for parental love to you. It is also extremely important for health reasons to remove fleas as soon as possible. Kittens become anemic from flea infestation and can easily fall prey to illnesses in this condition. Using a flea comb also helps the bonding process.

Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the kittens.

Play with the kittens using "kitty tease" toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to a string which is tied to a small stick) or lightweight cat toys. Don*t leave strings or any other object that is small enough to swallow with the kittens. This can be fatal.

Leave a radio with them tuned to a "talk" radio station whenever you are not with the kittens. This will help them become accustomed to human voices.

3. Separating Kittens
When socializing multiple kittens, it is sometimes necessary to separate them from one another to initiate their socialization with humans. This may sound harsh because our natural tendency is to want to keep them together. However, siblings will naturally bond with each other and we want them to bond with humans. Not all kittens will need to be separated from one another. But those that do not respond well to humans within a couple of days or those that are older than about 8 weeks of age when rescued might need to be separated from other kittens and allowed to interact only with humans for anywhere from a couple of days to a week. This separation is only temporary and kittens can be reunited with their siblings or others kittens once they form a bond with humans.

4. Offering "Treats"
Food will play an essential role in kitten socialization. Offer them "treats" often. It is especially effective to offer them a couple of spoonfuls of human baby food a day (meat only). Kittens LOVE baby food! Start by putting a little bit of baby food on their mouth or nose if they will not come to you. Once they realize they like the taste, offer them more on a spoon a few inches from their face. Gradually, hold the spoonful of baby food farther and farther away from the kitten and closer to you. This will entice the kitten to come toward you. Once they do this, and they get the positive reinforcement of the food, they will learn to not be afraid to approach you.  

5. Containment II
Within a week kittens usually make considerable progress. Each kitten will develop at a different rate. At this point, they can usually have access to a larger room; they can be placed back in the cage if they appear too scared and only want to hide. Some hiding places are ok, as long as kittens can be easily reached and picked up. A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear. Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under the bed it can be difficult to get them out and stressful if you try to force them out.

If there is one kitten that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in another room, away from the others. Work with this kitten more frequently. This will increase it*s dependence on humans. It will also prevent perpetuation of wildness in the litter mates.

Kitten-proof the room before letting the kittens out. Seal up any nooks and crannies where frightened kittens may enter and become trapped or inaccessible to you. Bathroom sinks often have spaces between the kickboard and the cabinet just large enough for the kitten. Block access to behind bookcases and heavy furniture where the kitten can become wedged. Be careful of open toilets and anything which can be climbed on and pulled down. Remove small and breakable objects as well as plants (many are poisonous).

6. Exposure to Other Humans
When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they will adjust best to a new home if they are socialized with other humans before being adopted out.

Mother Nature knew what she was doing when she created kittens in litters!

• Kittens need interaction with other kittens for healthy social development. A kitten learns a lot in the first several months of life from its mother and littermates. Separating a kitten from its mother is often a necessity for adoption purposes, but taking it away from its littermates and isolating it can delay the kitten’s development emotionally, socially, and sometimes physically. Kittens who are able to remain with one of their littermates or a similarly-aged companion tend to be healthier and happier, and in the long run, better socialized pets than those who are isolated from others of their kind at an early age.
  
  
• Even loving, caring, humans are not adequate substitutes for kitten companionship. Even if a person is fortunate enough to be home quite a bit, the amount of attention a lone kitten will demand is likely to occupy more time than the person has available. A pair of kittens will definitely still want to interact with people, but can keep each other occupied. Most cats, regardless of their age, are highly sociable and are truly happier living with other cat companions. This in turn makes them better pets.
  
  
• Kittens are curious and crave constant stimulation. Out of boredom, a single kitten will often entertain itself by chewing plants, climbing drapes and furniture, unrolling toilet paper, exploring electrical cords and sockets, etc. Kittens who live with other kittens may sometimes do these things as well, but if they have another kitten to tumble around and play with it is less likely they’ll need to entertain themselves with behaviors like these, which can be destructive and dangerous.
  
  
• Kittens bite and wrestle with one another--this behavior is normal. You can't prevent a kitten from doing what comes naturally, any more than you can force a two-year-old toddler to sit still. Though it's not acceptable for a kitten to bite and wrestle with its human companions, in the absence of having a littermate or companion its own age to play with, this is precisely what a single kitten will want to do. Even if you are willing to allow (and can tolerate) this behavior from your kitten, by the time the kitten matures, you will end up with an adult cat who has developed very bad habits (i.e. biting and scratching as “play”).
  
  
• Kittens are very active at night. A single kitten is likely to keep people awake at night with constant jumping, pouncing and other “hunting” behavior. With a companion to play with at night, this behavior is minimized because they will have each other to chase and play games with until they too fall asleep.
  
  
• A single kitten is not a good companion for an older cat. Kittens have boundless energy. They want to play and run constantly which typically overwhelms and irritates an older cat. Likewise, a kitten is apt to be frustrated that its companion doesn’t have its same level of energy. At the very least, this can lead to two very unhappy cats. At worst, behavior problems such as litterbox avoidance or destructive scratching can occur as one or both cats act out their frustrations on their surroundings. Its not likely that the two will have a close, bonded relationship, even after the kitten matures, since their experiences with one another from the beginning of the relationship are likely to be negative. An older kitty is better matched with a cat closer to its own age and temperament.

*SPCA NOVA requires that young kittens be adopted in pairs unless you have an existing kitten or young cat at home. This policy is NOT based on a desire to increase our number of adoptions. Rather this ensures that the kittens we rescue, nurture, and love are adopted into homes that offer the best possible environment for their social development. We understand that some people will still want to adopt a single kitten. Most rescue groups have similar policies regarding kittens. Thus, we suggest you adopt from a local animal shelter where kittens may not otherwise find any home.

Kittens are just like toddlers—exploring their big, new world, into everything. Their paws will bat at loose objects. They will attempt to eat or carry off things they find. Their coordination is not perfect so they may jump and miss things, knocking things over in the process. They will attempt to pull themselves up onto things by using whatever may be hanging within reach.

For the kitten’s safety, your piece of mind, and to preserve your treasured belongings, here are some hints to make the addition of this new creature a pleasant one for your household.

You need to do a walk-through of your home for your new kitten, just as you would when your child begins to crawl or walk. Put yourself into your kitten’s paws. Get down on your hands and knees and see things as your kitten would.

• Store medications and chemicals in a location out of your kitten’s reach. Kitten and cat paws will attempt to open cupboards, so make sure they are secure.
• Be sure to pick up any dropped medications because as soon as your kitten sees it, it will try to eat it.
• Clean up spills of cleaning products and other chemicals because your kitten may walk through it and then ingest it when it cleans itself.
• Place toxic plants in closed-off rooms. (Your vet should be able to provide you with a list of poisonous plants.)
• Keep string, thread, and yarn out of kitten’s reach. Cats cannot spit things out. Once a piece of thread is in the kitten’s mouth, it will be drawn back into the throat and be swallowed. In the kitten’s digestive tract, it may become entangled in the intestine. Surgery may be needed to remove it to prevent the death of the animal.
• Stow sewing supplies-buttons, needles, pins-in a secure place.
• Be sure that all open windows have sturdy, securely-fitted screens. Most new window screens are not meant to support the weight of children or animals. They are meant to keep out insects. Push on your screens to test their ability to withstand an eager animal’s jump at a fly or bird seen outside.
• Block access to small spaces. Look for holes in the walls where pipes come out of the wall, crawlspaces, loose ceiling tiles. Close off spaces behind appliances and cablinets. Kittens and cats love close quarters, but that doesn’t mean they can get themselves out again.
• Locate your cat before you sit down in on the sofa or use the recliner. Kittens and cats are killed every year by the reclining mechanism of “La-Z-Boy” type chairs.
• Close the lids and doors of washing machines, clothes dryers, dishwashers, and ovens.
• Supervise your kittens when your stove is in use or burners are still hot.
• Tie up or cut window shade pulls so that your kitten will not become entangled in it.
• Remove draping items which, when pulled may cause objects to fall on and injure your pet.
• Wrap up loose cords. Some kittens like to chew on cords. Putting bitter apple on the cord will discourage this. Some kittens will pull on the cord, drawing the lamp or phone down on top of it.
• Look before you step.

Halloween:

• With many people coming to your door, you may not be able to keep an eye on your kitten’s every move. Close your kitten into a quiet room with a favorite toy where it will not be stressed by the many voices and strangers, nor will it be tempted to escape out the front door. Your kitten will be safer and calmer through this evening’s mischief.
• Keep candy away from your kitten.
• Of course, your SPCA cat is kept indoors at all times. However, if you, or someone you know has an indoor/outdoor pet, keep it indoors on this frightful night. Cats are frequently the target for inhumane acts, and Halloween, in particular, makes cats a target. Black, predominantly black, and solid white cats are prime targets for groups practicing animal sacrifice.

Thanksgiving:

• Restrain from feeding your pet rich holiday treats. It may upset its tummy or digestion, with unpleasant results from both you and your pet.

Christmas:

• If you are having a holiday party, close your pet into a quiet room with a favorite toy where it will not be stressed by all the strange sights and sounds. Guests may not be as careful when coming and going as you are. Having a pet run away at Christmas time is a sure way to invite the Grinch for the holidays.
• If possible, put your Christmas tree in a room that your pet does not have access to. If this is not possible, follow the guidelines below.
• Do not use tinsel or foil garland if you have a young kitten in the house, or if your cat likes to eat everything it finds. Just as string and thread pose dangers to your pet, tinsel can tear up your pet’s intestine if ingested.
• Make sure your pet cannot get to the water under your live Christmas tree. The sap from the tree, and the additives frequently added to the water to preserve the tree can make your pet ill.
• Securely anchor your Christmas tree. Your pet may try to climb up the tree, toppling your work of art in the process. Consider putting an eye bolt in the ceiling and tying the tree to it.
• You may want to use unbreakable ornaments during the rambunctious first 2 years of a cat’s life. The glitter of dangling glass ornaments is irresistible to a kitten.
• Be prepared to find ornaments on the floor when you get home. Your kitten will bat them and play with them, despite your best efforts. It will try to climb up the tree.

Although sometimes cats will get along wonderfully in just a couple of hours, you should not be surprised to have a battle on your hands if you try to introduce your new cat too quickly. The time you spend on this all-important process will be saved by not having to break up battles every day.

1. The Steps to Take

• Set up a comfortable "safe room" for New Cat. Put her food, water, litter box (not near the food, scratching post, toys, and bed or other sleeping mat there.
   
• Expect a great deal of "hissy-spitty" behavior from both cats. This is natural and normal; they are just starting to explore their "pecking order."
   
• Scent is very important for cats. Let each of them smell the other indirectly, by rubbing a towel on one and letting the other smell it or by brushing one and letting the other smell it. They will soon accept the scent as a normal part of the house.
   
• Once or twice, switch roles. Put New Cat in the normal living quarters, and let your resident cat sniff out the new cat’s Safe Room.
   
• After a day or so, let the two cats sniff each other through a baby-gate or through a barely-opened door. Gauge the rate at which they seem to be acclimating to each other.
   
• When you think they’re ready, let them mingle under your supervision. Ignore hissing and growling, but you may have to intervene if a physical battle breaks out. Again, take this step slowly, depending on how quickly they get along. If they do seem to tolerate each other, even begrudgingly, praise both of them profusely.
   
• Make their first activities together enjoyable ones so they will learn to associate pleasure with the presence of the other cat. Feeding (with their own separate dishes), playing, and petting. Keep up with the praise.
   

• If things start going badly, separate them again, and then start where you left off. If one cat seems to consistently be the aggressor, give her some "time out," then try again a little bit later.

The introduction can take from two hours to six months, so don’t be discouraged if your cats don’t seem to get along well at first. Often the case is that they will eventually be "best buddies."
 

2. Factors to Consider

• If you are thinking of getting a kitten to keep an older cat company, you might want to consider two kittens. They will be able to keep each other company while the older cat learns to love them
   
• If you already have more than one cat, use the "alpha cat" for preliminary introductions. Once he/she accepts the newcomer, the other resident cats will quickly fall in line.
   
• Lots of snuggle-time and attention is indicated for all cats concerned during this period. Remember, the prime goal is to get them to associate pleasure with the presence of each other.

With patience and perseverance, you can turn what might appear at first as an "armed camp" into a haven of peace for your integrated feline family. Congratulations on giving another cat in need a permanent home!

• Search Immediately! An indoor only cat is almost certainly very close at hand. Look in, behind and under any place the cat may be hiding, starting right from the exit point -- in dense plantings, under a porch, house crawl space, storm drains. (A cat can crawl through an incredibly small slot when it needs to.) And don't neglect to look up, even if the cat has been declawed.

  When an outdoor-access cat disappears, it means that something has happened to the cat. That is because cats are territorial and do not just run away from home. They find themselves trapped, they get driven away from their territory, they become ill or injured and creep away to a quiet dark place. Thoroughly search the surrounding property and go door-to-door asking neighbors for permission to look on their property. Most people will gladly cooperate. Look around and try to imagine what could have happened to account for the disappearance. Have any neighbors recently moved, gone on vacation, or is their construction? If you have recently moved, check your old neighborhood and talk with people there and post flyers. When an owner moves their cat to a new home, lets the cat outside, it often leaves in order to find its way back to its old, established territory.

• Search at Dawn and Dusk. Many cats will venture out of hiding between 1-5 AM because they feel safer in the dark. Sit quietly in your yard and call your cat softly. Jingle its favorite toy or shake a box of dry cat food, open a can of food. Softly call the cat while looking. Remember the cat may not respond -- it's terrified of everything, including you -- but it may give a very faint reply. Use a flashlight to search all the areas you explored earlier.

• Put Food and Water Out Every Night. The cat may go back into hiding after eating but this will encourage your cat to hide nearby rather than stray farther in search of food.

• Use the Power of Scent. Place a few of the cat's indoor things (litter box, scratching post, bedding, etc.) around the yard. Familiar scents can bring a cat home.

• Contact All Area Shelters. While a shelter will not pick-up a cat it is possible that someone will turn your cat in. However, please keep in mind that this could take weeks or months because someone is not likely to help a cat until it appears lost (skinny, dirty) which can take quite a while.

• Contact Local Rescue Organizations. Contact groups like SPCA NOVA, Fancy Cats , Feline Foundation of Greater Washington, Homeless Animals Rescue Team , and Animal Allies. The Feline Foundation (www.ffgw.org) has contact information for these and other groups on their web site.

• Notify Others. Ask the children in your neighborhood to help find the cat -- they network well and know the "hiding places" in your neighborhood better than the adults do. Question others, such as dog walkers, joggers, postal carriers and ask them to keep an eye out for your cat

• Advertise. Post "Lost Cat" flyers in your neighborhood, pet supply stores, veterinary clinics. Place an ad in the paper. Post a lost cat entry on the VA Missing Pet Network. Offer a reward if possible. Caution: leave out one of your cats identifying characteristics so you can verify the honesty of any person claiming to have found your cat.

• Set a Humane Trap. There are many reasons why your cat may be close to home, but too afraid to make himself known. This is especially true of indoor only cats. Setting a humane trap may do the trick! This trap is a wire cage with a trip mechanism that closes a door when the cat enters the trap to get food. Once shut, the cat cannot get loose. Its important to monitor these traps regularly (e.g., every ½ or hour or so). Do not leave them open overnight or throughout the day. A scared cat can injure himself in a trap if left unattended for too long. Traps are available at most animal shelters, some vet offices, as well as pet stores and hardware stores. You may also trap other critters (e.g., another cat, raccoons, opossums etc). Don't worry. Just open the trap up and let it scurry away.

• Other Lost Pet Resources. Consider contacting a company that specializes in finding lost pets.

• Don't Give Up. Many pets are found weeks or months after they disappear. Keep looking in those same old spots, calling and listening. Try new spots, enlarge your search-area. SPCA NOVA recently reunited an 8 year old cat with his worried human companion one month after he was frightened away from his new home after a storm and he was found 10 miles from home! Your pet has to be somewhere, so don't give up too soon.

If your indoor-only cat has escaped outside there is good news--your cat is probably not lost at all! That is because it is likely that your cat is hiding and, depending upon the terrain, may be closer than you think! When an indoor-only cat escapes outside, it is a case of where is the cat hiding? That is because cats are territorial and your cat's territory was inside of your home. Once a cat is transplanted into unfamiliar territory, it seeks shelter because it is afraid. A cat that is afraid (and cats that are injured) will seek areas of concealment (under a deck, under a house, under a porch, in heavy brush, etc.) the chances are that your kitty will not respond to your voice and they will not meow! Meowing would give up their location to a predator. It has nothing to do with whether the cat loves you, whether it recognizes your voice, or whether it can smell you--it has everything to do with the fact that a frightened cat will hide and be silent!

Indoor-only cats are often found within a three house radius of their home, so keep your efforts close by. Remember she may not meow back when you call and yet still be very close. Some Indoor-only cats become very frightened when thrust into the unfamiliar outdoor world and will do everything possible to stay hidden. They are most likely hunkered down to the ground, more frightened than ever before, ready to dart away from any perceived threat - even from you.

Thoroughly search your property. Try to think like a cat, your cat specifically. Look around and try to imagine what could have happened to account for the disappearance and help you look in the right places. Bring a flashlight and check EVERYWHERE (possibly multiple times): inside drain pipes and culverts, in heavy brush, sheds, basement crawl spaces, open garages, under decks, any place that your pet could hide. THINK CLOSE...that he is nearby but hiding.

Indoor only cats are in a "scaredy cat" mode while they are outside, they have that instinct to stay put, hide, and will NOT meow. The only thing that might cause a cat to travel is if a dog or something were to frighten her, or if there was no place that offered protection and if there was no source of food or water. So please leave out food and water, as well as belongings with a familiar scent so that your cat does not have any reason to wander.

If you've been looking everywhere for your cat without any results, one method that has resulted in the recovery of many "missing" indoor-only cats is the same method used to capture feral cats--the use of a humane trap. These wire cages have a trip mechanism that when triggered by a cat, will shut the door and contain a cat inside. They are available through most animal shelters, some veterinarians, as well as pet shops and hardware stores. Thus your next step in getting your cat back is to going to be to obtain a cat trap with yummy canned cat food and attempt to trap her. This method has a 70% success rate for finding the lost indoor only cat.

Last word of advice is DON'T GIVE UP THE SEARCH TOO SOON. Don't give up as soon as the cat fails to return home or after only a few days and don't just wait for the cat to come back or not. Keep looking in those same old spots, calling and listening. Try new spots; enlarge your search-area to the next block or the next after that.

98% of cats reported missing to animal shelters are never returned to their owners. WHY? Because cat owners are not being told how and where to search for their missing cat! They are being told to post flyers and to drive twenty miles to check the animal shelter but they are not being instructed to set humane traps in their neighbor's yard because their indoor-only cat might be hiding. They are being told to place an advertisement in the local paper but they are not being told that indoor-only cats will likely be hiding within their territory in an area of concealment and that they will not meow.

SPCA of Northern Virginia wishes we could help each person who contacts us about a stray cat and/or kittens in their neighborhood. But we can't. Our resources - time, people, and money - are limited. We are an ALL VOLUNTEER organization which depends solely on foster homes and donations to provide food, shelter and medical care for our cats.

Here are some tips on what to do:

1. ALWAYS provide cat food and water

2. Determine if the cat is friendly or "feral"*

3. If the cat is friendly:

   • contact local shelters to file a "Found Cat Report" (contact the shelter in the county where the cat was found as well as neighboring counties)

   • post a found report on the Missing Pet Network

   • talk to neighbors to see if they know anything about the cat

   • place signs around the neighborhood asking if the cat belongs to anyone

   • contact other cat rescue groups for assistance (e.g., Feline Foundation of Greater Washington 703-920-8665, Animal Allies 703-940-9183, 4 Paws 703-761-7297, Fancy Cats 703-502-0233, Homeless Animals Rescue Team 703-691-4278, Friends of Homeless Animals 703-385-0224, Lost Cat and Dog Rescue Team 703-295-dogs); don't get discouraged if they can't help right away; keep calling until they have an "opening"

   • post messages on pet rescue on-line news groups or message boards to see if anyone is willing to help (e.g., www.acmepet.com/club/bboard/ or www.mailgate.org/rec/rec.pets.cats.rescue/)

   • if you can't find the cat's "guardian" and other rescue groups can't help either, please take responsibility for the cat/kittens yourself (see below)

4. If the cat is feral, options are more limited:

   • trap the cat, have it spayed/neutered and re-released ONLY if you are committed to providing food, water, and shelter (e.g., wood houses, dogloos) for the rest of the cat's life

   • contact a feral cat group for advice and assistance (e.g., Metro Ferals)

   • trap the cat and take it to an animal shelter (the cat may be euthanized if deemed unadoptable)

Providing Food and Water

1. Provide CAT food or cooked meat for adults if you don't have cat food immediately handy (cat's are carnivores - meat eaters!)

2. Provide KITTEN food for nursing moms and kittens

3. Provide clean water (not cow's milk which is hard for cats to digest!)

Trapping

1. Use a humane trap to capture a cat and/or kittens (a rescue organization or local animal shelter may be able to loan you one)

2. If possible, monitor the trap at all times; if it not possible, don't leave the trap unmonitored for longer than 30 minutes; trapped cats are likely to injure themselves; traps should be covered and cats safely removed ASAP

Taking Cats and/or Kittens to Local Animal Shelters

1. If a rescue organization is not able to assist you and you can't bring a friendly cat and/or kittens into your home, please take them to a local animal shelter.  We recommend you call several local shelters to determine how full they are and what their policies are regarding taking in stray cats/kittens.  Many of our local shelters have very nice facilities and work very hard to find homes for the many cats/kittens that end up in their care.  It is never best to just leave them outside to fend for themselves.  Stray cats/kittens are often hit by cars, get into fights with other cats or dogs, starve, or injure themselves.

Bringing a Cat and/or Kittens into Your Home and Getting Vet Care

1. Put the cat and/or kittens in a bathroom or separate room by themselves (they feel safer in a small space and if you have cats of your own this will limit the possible transmission of disease)

2. Take the cat and/or kittens to a vet ASAP (cats and kittens should be tested for feline AIDS and feline leukemia; given rabies and distemper shots according to their age; treated for worms and fleas; and spayed/neutered when appropriate based on health and age)

3. Keep the cat and/or kittens separate from your cats for at least 10 days to watch for possible infectious diseases such as upper respiratory infections

Socializing Feral Cats and/or Kittens

1. Feral kittens over 6 weeks of age and adult feral cats can rarely be fully socialized; some older feral kittens and cats may learn to trust one person after a long period of socialization but can rarely be socialized well enough to be adopted out as pets

2. Here's information on Taming Feral Kittens

Finding Good Homes

1. If the cat is over 4 months of age, have it spayed/neutered BEFORE releasing it to a new home; if the kitten is younger require the adoptive family to do this at the appropriate age (Contact Spay, Inc. at 703-522-7920 for information on low cost spay and neuter)

2. Place ads in newspapers, post signs in vet offices and community bulletin boards, and use "word of mouth"

3. Make sure the cat is going to a safe, loving, lifetime home (see our adoption guidelines for tips on what to look for in the "right" home) (e.g. do not allow declawing, insist the cat be kept indoors, young kittens should not go to homes with young children/toddlers, ask for permission to check on the welfare of the cat at a later date etc..)
   
   *Note: Finding good homes for cats and kittens takes time and commitment. It isn't easy, but with persistence you can do it! Please don't short change a friendly cat or kitten by putting him/her back into a bad situation. You want to be able to sleep at night knowing you've done the right thing!
   
   

Good luck! We hope this information helps!

* A "feral" cat has not been socialized toward humans; meaning it is essentially a wild animal. A feral cat will be very skittish toward humans; meaning it will not allow direct contact. Even a friendly cat may be skittish at first until it learns to trust you. A friendly cat will usually warm up to a friendly human within a few days if you are providing the cat with food and water and you are patient and non-threatening. It may be hard to determine if a mother cat with kittens is friendly or feral because she is likely to hiss and spit if you approach her kittens. So more time and greater caution may need to be used when trying to determine if a mother cat is friendly or feral.